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August 25 - September 3 Bahir Dar for final preparations 

Like a leaky faucet, the team slowly trickled into Bahir Dar congregating for what was to be the paddle of a lifetime. 

On August 25, crammed with luggage and inhaling diesel, Les and Mark came overland from Addis with Connecticut Colin (a.k.a. Big Dog) who had assumed the role of Ethiopian Base Operations, mule-boy and part-time paddler.  It wasn’t long before the adventurers were settled into the deluxe Dib Anbessa Hotel and ready to contest the local Foozball crown, unfazed by the vengeful Rasta villain who apparently was hard on their tail. 

With the arrival of Himalayan rafting legend Anvesh Singh Thapa on August 26, the official cricket element was introduced to the mix. 

A 30-minute timeslot for Les and Mark on the national Ethiopian TV talk show Meet ETV catapulted the visitors to celebrity status.  Foozball triumphs, parading inflated rafts through city streets and up hotel walls, a spiked-pith helmet and Anvesh’s assumed association with Bollywood, further enhanced the team’s larger than life stature.  In addition to the countless logistical preparations and reconnaissance missions, the team worked tirelessly to dispel any rumors of the wealth of foreigners to ensure expedition costs were kept at responsible levels.  Setting unrealistic expectations on westerners - something that has occurred from past expeditions and careless foreign-aid efforts - has often resulted in a cargo cult mentality that in the long run creates greater dependency and thwarts efforts at self-sufficiency.

On August 31, after the Blue Nile Gorge flyover, Kelley, Scott and Sarahlee landed in the empty jungle-surrounded Bahir Dar airport, resembling nothing short of a suspicious narcotics drop.  Ali and Rob drove in the next afternoon and the team was together in Africa for the first time.

The following few days were spent finalizing preparations including a session devoted to scrutinizing the fly-over footage, examining the maps, preparing the vessels, coordinating the rations, tying up permits and solving some awkward money accessibility puzzles.

With most of the pressing issues ironed out and faced with a 3AM rise the next morning, the team retired to their comfortable rooms for the last night's sleep before the big journey.

The team sitting on the roof of the Dib Anbessa Hotel, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.  Top left: Ali Donald, Kelley Kalafatich, Scott Armstrong.  Bottom left: Anvesh Singh Thapa, Sarahlee Lawrence, Rob Coffey, Les Jickling and Mark Tanner.
The team sitting on the roof of the Dib Anbessa Hotel, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia overlooking Lake Tana. Top left: Ali Donald, Kelley Kelafatich, Scott Armstrong. Bottom left: Anvesh Thapa, Sarahlee Lawrence, Rob Coffey, Les Jickling and Mark Tanner.

Sep 4-Sep 8 Blue Nile Sacred Source - Lake Tana 160km >>

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© Mark Tanner and Les Jickling 2004

 

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